What is the Amalfi Coast? A Comprehensive Guide to Understanding Italy's Best Coastline in 2026
- Nathaniel Mellor
- 2 days ago
- 21 min read
And why you should visit the Amalfi Coast this summer (and every summer!)
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If you're like me, there's a small chance you might not have heard about the Amalfi Coast, which I think is a little like saying, "So, have you heard about this 'Rome' city people are talking about these days?". Truth be told, when I first moved to Italy, my mom excitedly told me that I would now be located roughly an hour from the Amalfi Coast.
I said, "Neat", gave her a thumbs up and carried on with my life until I actually visited the Amalfi Coast. And then, I understood why everyone talks about it (and maybe not everyone, but some people!).
While it's incredibly touristed, well-explored, and no longer a secret, it's still one of the more amazing places in Italy and well worth the visit, especially if you're planning on going south.
Jump to the section you're curious about!
What is the Amalfi Coast?
At this risk of testing your patience, I figured I'd start with the absolute basics and that is establishing what the Amalfi Coast is. I promise, it will be quick!
In essence, it's a collection of 13 former fishing towns along the southern half of the Sorrentine Peninsula that for a very brief period in time became their own country (the Duchy of Amalfi) and then were very quickly gobbled up by other countries (namely, Salerno, and then Pisa).
Because of the natural geography around this area, it's very difficult to create urban sprawl, so these small towns have remained blessedly original and appealing for aesthetic and tourist purposes.
Since the late 1800s, the Amalfi Coast (specifically, Positano) has drawn in tourists, and apart from a minor pause during the World Wars, this has continued uninterrupted for nearly 150 years.
And, done! That's what the Amalfi Coast is!
Where is the Amalfi Coast?
Something I've seen asked on Reddit a lot is, "Is the Amalfi Coast in XYZ country" with things ranging from France, to Greece, to Turkey, and, of course, Italy. Others have asked the simpler "Where is the Amalfi Coast?".
As you might have guessed already, it's in Italy. As you might be able to tell from the map, it's south of Naples, west of Salerno. And in case you're asking, "Wait, where is Rome in comparison to all of this?" Well, Naples is a few hours south of Rome, so it didn't make it into the screenshot, but the Amalfi Coast is about 3-4 hours south of Rome.
While it might be a little difficult to tell from the map, the zoomed-in version of the coastline is the Amalfi Coast, consisting of 13 towns: Vietri sul Mare, Cetara, Erchie, Maiori, Minori, Amalfi, Atrani, Ravello, Scala, Tramonti, Conca dei Marini, Furore, Praiano, and Positano. More likely than not, when speaking of the Amalfi Coast, people will speak of Positano (as it's one of the more famous towns and the perfect place to dock your yacht, if you own a yacht) or, of course, Amalfi. Because of this, they tend to have the most traffic, even if they aren't the "best" towns. Advertising is everything!
How to get to the Amalfi Coast?
Now that you know where it is, how does one get to the Amalfi Coast?
Well, it's a little more complicated than some of the other popular coastal areas in Italy (Cinque Terre, the Salento region, etc.) mainly because it's a little more difficult to reach. It doesn't have a train station, and while there are buses to the Amalfi Coast, the main road along the Amalfi Coast (Strada Statale 163, the Amalfitana) is a classic example of "one way in, one way out", so this can make it difficult to actually get out there.
This said, if you're just looking for a guide on how to get to the Amalfi Coast, or Positano in specific, we have a handful of guides below!
How to Get to the Amalfi Coast by Bus
There's a bus company called "Sita SUD" that runs buses along the Amalfi Coast either starting in Salerno (the city to the east) or Sorrento. All buses switch in Amalfi, so if you're going east-to-west or west-to-east you'll have to switch in Amalfi for bus that continues through.
Tickets have to be purchased ahead of time from a tabacchi (a place that sells tabacco products) or an edicola (a place that sells newspapers and magazines). Once on board, you have to validate them at the little yellow boxes, or the bus driver will sometimes tear the tickets slightly.
The price per ticket is calculated by distance traveled, but you can absolutely tell the seller where you want to go and they'll give you the correct ticket.
How to Get to the Amalfi Coast by Ferry
Possibly the most beautiful way to see the Amalfi Coast, the ferry is also the easiest way to travel along the coast. You can pick up the ferry in Naples, Sorrento, or Salerno and take it to any town along the coast.
While it's more expensive (roughly $20 a ticket versus the $3-$5 of the bus), it allows you to not feel as claustrophobic, bouncing around in the back of a bus as it takes turns at just a little too high a speed.
Instead, you get to see the Amalfi Coast from the sea, which is a fairly special experience. There's something magical about seeing these towns cling to the rocky cliffs in open defiance of gravity, spilling down into the sea. And then, as the boat pulls into the dock, it honestly feels as if it hearkens back to some sort of yesteryear of traveling, and it's something I'd highly recommend everyone trying once (as long as you don't get seasick).
Before I jump into the "from where" and "who runs it", I'll be honest, I'm about to toss a bunch of options and company names at you. You can either compare them yourself, or use a tool like Omio*. This is an affiliate link, and while we don't represent Omio, we do receive a small commission if you book through us, which helps out the website tremendously.
From Naples, you can get a ferry from Molo Beverello. Both NLG and Positano Jet run to Positano and Salerno, with NLG also offering stops at other towns along the Amalfi Coast.
From Salerno, you can grab a ferry from the incredibly convenient Molo Concordia, which is about a 4 minute walk (if that) from the train station. Salerno has far more ferry options to the Amalfi Coast than any other origin city, so you'll find NLG, Alicost, TravelMar, and literally anyone with a boat willing to take you out there. If you're arriving through the train station, you might want to consider using TravelMar since they already partner with Trenitalia, putting your entire trip on a single ticket, which might simplify things.
From Sorrento, you can get a ferry from the Marina Piccola. Like Naples, there are a fair number of options, such as NLG, Alilauro (an offshoot of Alicost), and SM Seremar.
Keep in mind, if you're traveling outside of the spring and summer season (and, outside of the first half of autumn) then you might find that the ferry schedule is heavily reduced. I wouldn't recommend relying on them for daytrips, especially from Naples which might not even have a ferry running.
As I mentioned, if you'd like to compare all the ferries in a single place, I do highly recommend Omio, not only because it benefits us, but because it can take away the headache.
What to do on the Amalfi Coast?
Now that you've made it to the Amalfi Coast (yay!) what is there to actually do on the Amalfi Coast?
Eat and swim.
I'm kidding, but only slightly.
As the Amalfi Coast is well-known, it's not exactly a place filled with history like Pompeii or Rome. It doesn't have incredible art museums like Florence or canals like Venice. However, that doesn't mean there isn't anything to see.
While the idea of "what to do on the Amalfi Coast" could fill a website in its own right, allow me to at least point you in the right direction and give you some things to consider.
Swim on the Amalfi Coast
The Amalfi Coast has some of the best swimming in Italy, hands down. While not every town has an amazing beach or local swim hole (for example, Vietri sul Mare is right next to Salerno's major shipping port, and I don't love swimming around this area, partly due to the runoff/oil leaks from the ships, and partly because, well, I don't love swimming anywhere near massive ships), most do, so where are they?
Important note: If you are planning on swimming anywhere along the Amalfi Coast, but specifically in a town like Positano, keep in mind that it is illegal to walk around in a bathing suit or topless (regardless of gender). Many Italians look at the beach as a place where it's perfectly acceptable to have very little clothing on (though, most beaches are not nude beaches) but as soon as you step into a town, they expect "decorum" and will fine you for wearing anything that makes their town feel like a resort town.
Where to swim in Positano
Positano has two major beaches, the "Spiaggia Positano" and the "Spiaggia Fornillo", with "spiaggia" meaning "beach". So, it's the Positano Beach, and the Fornillo Beach.
Let's talk about the worst option, the Positano Beach. This is where you'll pull up on the ferry, it's where tons of boats dock right offshore, and it's absolutely slammed with people. In the photo below, you can see that tiny little stretch of beach that has a mismatch of towels and umbrellas which is what constitutes the "free beach". The rest of it costs roughly €50 per person for the use of a chair and umbrella. And again, this is all to watch as boats pull in and out.
If you're only goal is to dip your toes into the water, or simply look at it, this is a great beach. But if you're planning on a beach day, or if you're here for a day-trip and you want to really relax, I highly recommend the alternative.
So, what's the alternative? I hear you asking, and it's Fornillo Beach.
I will warn you, it's a short walk from the Positano Beach along a paved and somewhat hilly path along the hillside. Likewise, most of the time you'll be in the sun. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it if you have any mobility issues despite the path being paved. It does go up and down a fair bit, which can make it exhausting.
This said, it's a much nicer beach. And, despite the fact it's a walk away, there are still plenty of lidos (the beach clubs) if you do want to spend a little money to rent a bed, umbrella, and the access to a bathroom. Not only that, they tend to be a little cheaper (though, not always, so it's important to double-check!).
Likewise, the stretch of "free beach" or "spiaggia libera" at Fornillo Beach is much larger, giving you the chance to spread out and find a little privacy.
Where to swim in Amalfi
Honestly, you really shouldn't. A fair amount of the area around the beach is a parking lot for buses and cars, plus there's a lot of traffic around the beach, plus you're right next to a marina, and possibly the biggest "plus" of all (this is a negative), you're right next to to where the ferry pulls in.
While you can pay for a bed at a lido far away from the port, you're still right next to/below the road into and out of Amalfi.
In essence, I highly recommend not swimming in Amalfi.
Wait, so where else can you swim along the Amalfi Coast?
Honestly, anywhere that isn't Amalfi, but in the spirit of wanting to give you a starting point, below are three out of favorite places.
Where to swim in Cetara
Strictly in terms of the Amalfi Coast, Cetara is definitely one of the more "unknown" towns. While millions of people pass through everyone year on buses or pass below on a ferry, very few people actually stop and check the place out.
Which is a great thing, in my opinion.
It has all the beautiful parts of the Amalfi Coast (the pastel colors, being right on the sea, the bougainvillea, the narrow alleys) with none of the crowds.
It also has a variety of beaches. While the obvious beach is the Spiaggia di Cetara in the middle of town, it's also right next to the marina and docking point for the ferry. (If it's not clear yet, I hate swimming next to marinas or ferries.) Thankfully, it's far from the only beach.
Just a short walk down the SS163 (yes, the major road along the Amalfi Coast) is a little walkway that will lead you down to the Spiaggia del Lannio. While it has a little restaurant attached to the beach, it still feels private compared to the rest of the Amalfi Coast.
If this still feels too crowded, you can choose to go the other direction from Cetara, down to Spiaggia la Collata, which is a tiny little beach with no infrastructure, truly giving you a sense of paradise in the middle of all these packed beaches and bus tours.
In either case: be careful while walking along SS163. While it's common to see people walking along the road (as it's the only connector for all of the towns) and you will not be the only people walking there, tourists with cars might not be expecting to see people. Buses and locals will be used to it, but still, stay on the outside edge of the road and exercise extreme caution at all times.
Where to swim in Furore
There's really only one place to swim in Furore, and that's the fjord of Furore.
Seriously. The rest of Furore is steep cliff with no place to easily get into or out of the water, especially if it's rough. The fjord of Furore is also below a road, or more specifically, a bridge over the fjord. But that's precisely why I recommend it: for it's strangeness. Likewise, while it's a strange little beach, it's also a free beach, so there's no need to rent an umbrella or chair, you can simply set up wherever you fancy.
I will mention, one of the major downsides is the shade. As you might be able to see from the photo below, the steep sides of the little inlet mean it only gets the sun when it's at its highest, in the middle of the day.
While this can be fantastic in late July into August, it also means that swimming here might not be a great option for the rest of the year.
Where to swim in Erchie
As you might have noticed, Erchie isn't one of the towns listed on the Amalfi Coast. This is because it's actually a little hamlet or neighborhood of Maiori, a much larger neighboring town. That said, this has more to do with administrative boundaries and less to do with actual geographic proximity. Which means, while Maiori certainly has a "tiny city" feel, Erchie has a "where in the heck am I" feel, and that's perfect for finding off-the-beaten-path swimming spots.
Spiaggia di Erchie is the go-to, of course. Most of the beach requires you rent an umbrella and a chair from a lido, however, there is a small strip of free beach.
Just beyond the Torre di Cerniola (or, Cerniola Tower) is a tiny little free beach, inaccessible on foot, called Spiaggia del Cauco. But have no fear! You can simply rent a paddle board, or a little pedal boat, sail around the jutting peninsula of Torre di Cerniola, and you'll end up in a quiet stretch of beach. This is much more relaxed than the main beach, but by no means "hidden" as it's advertised as part of the sales pitch when you rent the paddle board.
For those of you wishing for a little more privacy, or a little more adventure, there's the Spiaggia di Suverano. While you can walk here from Erchie, it's a little easier if you're renting a car. Plus, there's parking for at least 2 cars near the entrance, which is on the SS163. Keep in mind, if you are choosing this beach, it can be a little difficult to physically get to. There is a staircase down to the beach, but it does stop abruptly about halfway down, so you'll have to continue down the rocks on foot/scoot down bottom first.
That said, it's quiet and rarely fills up, even in the middle of the summer. And, if you're feeling particularly adventurous, you can take the paddle board/pedal boat here instead! Of course, first check with the company, as they might not allow anyone to go too far with their equipment.
Lastly, for those of you who are truly hardcore, or gripped by a desire to see a beach that is rarely seen by tourists given the difficult of reaching it, there's the Spiaggia dei Limoni. While it's basically inaccessible from the road (unless you'd like to rappel down a cliff) it's easily and commonly accessible from the sea. So, if you're planning on renting a boat, paddle board, or pedal boat (if they allow you to go this far), then what awaits you is truly the closest to paradise along the Amalfi Coast: a beach all to yourself.
Hiking along the Amalfi Coast
Due to its mountainous terrain, there are plenty of walks and hikes around the Amalfi Coast, depending on your level of comfort. If you really wanted to, you could simply strike out in any direction and hope for the best, though I strongly discourage this.
Hike along the Path of the Gods
Instead, you could consider a hiking trail like the famous Path of the Gods. I'm telling you, advertising is everything, and telling people you walked along the Path of the Gods has got some gravitas to it. According to legend, the Greek gods walked along this path on their way to rescue Ulysses from the siren of Li Galli, a nearby group of islands.
It starts in a small neighborhood of Pianillo called "Bomerano" and, thankfully, is downhill most of the way before it terminates in Nocelle.
Below, there is a 3D rendering of the area from Google Maps. I attempted to draw the path with their "plotting" tool with some not-fantastic results. However, with if you follow the yellow line, you can see how it starts in Bomerano and "ends" in Nocelle, however, you can then hop onto the road and following it all the way to Positano.
In theory, it takes anywhere from 3-5 hours, but that is entirely dependant on how fast you're walking, and whether or not you take any shortcuts.
Walk along the Path of the Lemons
For those of you (like myself) who like the idea of a "walk" more than a hike, fear not! There are still plenty of walks, such as the Path of the Lemons. While not a swanky sounding as Path of the Gods, I think it still gets the point across.
This Path of the Lemons connects Minori with the neighboring Maiori in a way that doesn't take you along the road. While it's fairly flat most of the way, it still does go uphill and then back down.
Museums on the Amalfi Coast
The Amalfi Coast is known for many things, the number of museums isn't really one of them. That said, if you enjoy a good museum, and you'd like to learn something between sips of limoncello and bites of lemon sorbetto, there are still enough locations to scratch that itch.
The Amalfi Paper Museum
I realize that some of you just said "Ew, paper?" and others just said "Oooh, paper!".
I still remember summer camp (and later art class) where they wheeled out the paper press, and we rolled our paper fibers into it, drying them out. Lemme tell you, I've been chasing that high ever since. Which is weird, since I don't make paper.
But I love watching it made, and this is the place to watch paper made.
It's not about the fact the Museum is in a paper mill dating back to the 13th century. It's not about the fact their paper has been used for way more than simply writing on. Honestly, it's about the fact they still have a giant hammer that they use to soften the wood, cotton, and linen pulp.
Okay, so, maybe it's also about the history.
The paper made in Amalfi, apart from having an insanely storied history (used by writers like Longfellow and watercolor artists like Scopetta, also used in the creation of tax stamps) is still made today. So, if you're an artist, writer, or simply in the mood to purchase a journal that you'll never use because it's too special (seriously, just write in it), I highly recommend this Amalfi Paper Museum.
Ancient Arsenal of the Republic of Amalfi
If you have a penchant for maritime law, then you might want to consider a little visit to the Arsenale (Italian for "Arsenal"). It is in the Duchy of Amalfi that some of the Mediterranean's first maritime laws were laid down, called the "Amalfi Tabula", or "Amalfi Table". It established certain guarantees, such as a ship that has wrecked should first work to save the crewpeople and cargo before the ship itself. Or, that a crewperson hurt on board should receive compensation from the ship's owner.
In fact, some maritime law today has its roots in the Amalfi Tabula. You can even go and see one of the first handwritten copies of this legal system at the Arsenale. Likewise, if you're into compasses, you might be surprised to know (or maybe not!) that the box compass was perfected in Amalfi and a version of it is also on display.
Villa Rufolo
This Villa is actually above Amalfi in Ravello. While the Villa itself is many things—museum, music and wedding venue, and botanical garden—it's mainly known for its incredible terrace and view of the Amalfi Coast.
While it is ticketed (€8 per adult), it's completely worth it if you're looking for a casual stroll around a quiet garden followed by a breathtaking view.
These aren't the only museums or sites that are worth visiting—far from it!—but if you only have limited time along the Coast, these are the ones I'd feel comfortable telling someone to prioritize (if they're into museums).
What part of the Amalfi Coast should I stay on?
Before I jumped right into the "best towns of the Amalfi Coast" I first wanted to reiterate and clarify something you might have already seen mentioned in this article. In very loose terms, the Amalfi Coast is split into east and west.
Or rather, if you're reliant on the Sita SUD bus, then it is. If you're renting a car, or if you're planing on only taking the ferry, then you can comfortably skip this part.
This is because the bus treats Amalfi like the midpoint of the Amalfi Coast.
This means, if you're reliant on the bus, Amalfi will act as a sort of soft bottleneck for any travel back and forth. For example, if you're staying in Positano and you want to see the famous ceramics of Vietri sul Mare, then you'll have physically get off the bus in Amalfi and wait in line (for potentially more than an hour, depending on the time of year and the length of the line) before continuing. Likewise, if a bus is full, they won't stop, not even at a bus stop. So if you're staying in Praiano, and the bus already filled up is Positano, then you're out of luck as it won't stop to pick up anyone until someone gets off.
This said, with the ferry, there's less of an issue. While they can be packed in the summer (and, honestly, in the spring and fall) they will not make everyone disembark in Amalfi—or any of the stops—but simply pause there while people get off and on.
So, if you're thinking you'd prefer to see more of one half of the Amalfi Coast than the other and you know that you're planning on only using the bus, then I'd highly recommend staying on that side, either east or west.
Where to stay on the Amalfi Coast?
Now that you know which "half" of the Amalfi Coast you're planning on staying on (east or west), let's talk about some specific cities.
Where to stay in Western Amalfi Coast
Believe it or not, there aren't tons of options (or towns) east of Amalfi. Positano, of course, Praiano, and for those of you looking for a little something different, up near Pianillo such as the Bomerano neighborhood. Feel overwhelmed? Don't worry, we'll go over each of them!
Staying in Positano
This has to be one of the more famous places to stay along the Amalfi Coast—and for good reason. Tons of restaurant, hotels, and shopping. Plus, the aforementioned two beaches. And a famous church (Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta).
While it's popular, it's also steep, both in terms of topography and price. If you aren't really into trudging up and down the entirety of town every time you want to go to the beach, hit up a grocery store, or eat dinner, this might not be the best town for you.
In terms of pricing, you might notice that a hotel room in the summer is nearly impossible to find for less than $400 a night. Most of them are up in that $800 a night range. Well, if your dream has always been to stay in Positano, consider going in the late summer, early fall (around late September or early October). It's still warm enough to swim and the prices also take a plunge.
Staying in Praiano
Arguably Positano's lesser-known cousin, Praiano is just down the coast from Positano (towards Amalfi). The majority of Praiano is a single road, winding it's way up and down the steep face (from the top of Praiano down to the Amalfi Coast Road).
Despite being on the coast, it's actually on a cliff above the water. The only real access to a beach is the nearby Marina di Praia, not a bad beach by any means, but tiny, cramped, and often in the shade. That said, some of the hotels we mention do have "access" to a beach (a staircase down to a flattish rock).
Staying in Bomerano
This one is certainly off the beaten path as it's not actually on the Amalfi Coast. It's above it, situated in this almost secret little valley. Well, maybe not secret, but no where near as famous as its coastal brethren.
And while it's not a walk down to the beach like Praiano, or on the beach like Positano, it does boast phenomenal views and a bit of tranquility in an otherwise hectic stretch of coast. Plus, if you are into hiking, it is the start of the Path of the Gods (and it has plenty of parts to walk around that aren't as demanding).
Where to stay in Eastern Amalfi Coast
Staying in Maiori
This might be the best "middle of the road" option that fits most people's needs. It's largely flat (unlike Positano), on a large stretch of beach (unlike Praiano or Bomerano), has tons of places to stay and eat at (unlike Cetara and Erchie), and is one of the largest towns (by physical footprint) so you won't feel a closed in.
Of course, I have to add, Maiori does look a little like it would be more in place in a 90s real estate development photo of Florida than it doesn't along the Amalfi Coast, but you know what they say! When you're in Maiori, you don't have to look at Maiori!
Staying in Vietri sul Mare
Known for its ceramics and being the first town along the Amalfi Coast (coming from Salerno), Vietri sul Mare can be a surprisingly lovely town to stay in. It has plenty of local shopping (especially if you're looking to outfit your kitchen with an Amalfi touch), easy access to a major city, and weirdly enough, the only train station along the Amalfi Coast. It's also one of the more "populated" feeling towns, especially with locals, and is crammed with bars and restaurants. It feels a little like you get to visit the Amalfi Coast alongside other Italians, rather than droves of Americans (if that is your vibe, definitely consider Positano).
Plus, you can visit (or stay!) in nearby Raito, which is situated a little above Vietri and offers expansive views.
Staying along the Amalfi Coast Road
This option is mostly for those of you who are renting a car and have a lot of freedom. Believe it or not, all along the Amalfi Coast are hotels that trickle down to the sea below. Some with access to otherwise private beaches, some with amazing restaurants, and all of them with incredible views. It's better to think of them as these isolated resorts than part of the Amalfi Coast.
This said, without a car, they're basically impossible to reach, so if you aren't renting one, plan on using a TON of taxis.
That said, some of these hotels listed aren't east of Amalfi.
Are there other places like the Amalfi Coast in Italy?
Fortunately, there is! If this article made you excited to visit the Amalfi Coast but you realized that it's far more south than you planned on going, the closest alternative (that isn't the Sorrento Coast) would be Cinque Terre.
Along the Ligurian Coast, Cinque Terre has a very similar feel and "vibe" to the Amalfi Coast. Both contain former fishing villages, both use pastel colors (though, and I'm not even joking, Cinque Terre does it to draw in tourism, but the Amalfi Coast has traditionally used light pastels—typically reds and yellows—in their housing color), and both are tiny and super walkable.
Even if you aren't headed to Genoa (capital of the Liguria region), it's still doable for a very long daytrip from Florence, or a simple overnight trip.