Is the Amalfi Coast Road Dangerous?

From mopeds to cars to buses, is taking to the Amalfi Coast Road dangerous?

The Amalfitana, or Amalfi Coast Road.

Few things sound more idyllic than renting a car—convertible, of course—putting the top down, and winding through the Amalfi Coast's unbelievably gorgeous highway. You stop in Minori for a delizia di limoni, Amalfi for a lemon sorbetto, and top off the drive with a Campari and soda at a bar overlooking the sea in Positano.

Of course, the more common way to see the Amalfi Coast road is in a bus, taking massive turns, going nose-to-nose with other cars, and you, gripping on to the seat in front of you, looking out the window to the sea smashing into the rocks some hundred feet below.

In either case, the question becomes:

Is the Amalfi Coast Road dangerous?

This is a hard question to answer without a bunch of caveats, but as a whole, no, not really. There's this idea that cars are flying off the road left and right, smashing into oncoming cars, or even getting trapped in the few tunnels. In reality, the Amalfi Coast road is no more dangerous than any other road, and honestly, probably a bit safer given the fact that everyone is hyper-attentive (when they aren't looking around, trying to take pictures while driving—please don't do this).

This is the part where I'd absolutely love to add in some stats, really prove my point, however, Italy doesn't look at the SS163 Amalfitana (the name of the road) in specific, but at Campania as a whole, which includes Naples, and lemme tell you, Naples skews the results pretty hard.

Instead, to break this down, I want to look at different modes of transportation and what to expect.

The Amalfi Coast Road on a bus

This is probably the safest way to see the SS163 (so much quicker to write that than "the Amalfi Coast Road") mainly because you (or your travel partner) isn't the one driving.

The bus drivers for Sita Sud (the bus company that takes you along the SS163) might be some of the best drivers in the world, and I don't mean that with an ounce of sarcasm. Mopeds flying by left and right, tourists stuck on a tight turn, some old-school Amalfitana walking along with bags of groceries in each hand—these drivers handle it without an issue.

The Amalfi Coast Road in a car

When you're planning your trip to the Amalfi Coast, the allure of a few days in a car is incredibly attractive. However, I'm not sure I'd recommend that everyone rent a car and attempt it.

First, while it doesn't affect the safety directly, the SS163 only allows certain cars on certain days to drive along the coastal road (license plates that end in even numbers can drive on even days such as the 8th, or 12th, and likewise for odd-numbered license plates and odd-numbered days). This means, without you evening knowing it, you might get a ticket for driving on the road day if you aren't paying attention. (The ticket will be sent to the rental car agency, who will send it on to you with a fun little "service fee" attached.)

Second, if you aren't used to driving in Italy, there are slightly different road rules (giving priority to buses, for example) that can make it easy to end up in a sticky situation or ticketed.

Third, if you are renting a car (as opposed to borrowing or buying one), there's no guarantee that your car will emerge without dings. Mopeds flying past, tight roads in towns, and buses that don't mind a 1-inch clearance means it's not uncommon to collect a ding or two on your way through.

The Amalfi Coast Road on a moped

I don't think I can, in good conscience, recommend anyone take a moped on the SS163 unless you grew up in Naples and you're familiar with the unhinged driving one can expect there.

Lane splitting—or simply driving in the oncoming lane—is common, as is not yielding to pedestrians or buses. And while you won't drive like that, most drivers will assume that you will, and will change the way they drive because of it (such as driving more defensively, or not giving you the space you need).

If you're comfortable on a moped or motorcycle, it can be a great way to see the Coast, but we'd only ever suggest it for someone who is genuinely experienced and has no problem with traffic, tight spaces, and a total disregard for traffic laws (by some other drivers).