Of the best pastry shops in Venice, here are our picks for the best frittelle during Carnevale
Frittelle are a classic Venetian Carnevale pastry. Lemon-sized balls of fried dough enriched with raisins and pine nuts, plain or filled with zabaione, Chantilly cream, chocolate and more. These heavenly fluffy pasties can be found in many pastry shops around Venice. However, because they are fried, they are best made in-house and eaten fresh, so it's worth going to one of the pastry shops on our list.
Every location listed is a pasticceria (pastry shop) which also serves coffee. Many will also serve hot tea and other beverages. You will need to indicate whether you want your pastries to eat in or to takeaway. To eat in you can say "al banco" (at the bar) or "al tavolo" (at the table); sitting at a table will very likely cost more. To say to-go you can say "da asporto" (takeaway).
To find out about other Carnevale pastries you can check out our article Carnevale Pastries in Venice!
Majer
Neighborhood: Santa Croce
Majer was packed on the day we visited, but it was so worth it. As we've talked about in our podcast, it can be hard to know if the modis operandi is to order and pay at the cash register first or to order at the bar and then pay. This day at Majer was like that. Two lines filled the shop while several people behind the counter happily, but stressfully, whipped out pastries and coffees. Masses of frittelle were flying from the pastry cases and pastry chefs could be seen through a glass wall making masses more in the kitchen. Being able to see the pastry chefs actually making pastries was really special and something we only saw at Majer.
Some indoor seating is available as well as outdoor seating. We were not charged to sit the day we went, but it was so crowded they may have given up trying to track seating on that day. Be aware that the restaurant across the street has identical tables and chairs, but you are not allowed to drink/eat food from Majer at their tables. Bar seating may be available on normal days, but it was not possible the day we went.
Pasticceria Dal Mas
Neighborhood: Cannaregio
Pasticceria Dal Mas is near the Santa Lucia train station which makes it a great place to grab Frittelle on the way in or out of town. In addition to frittelle, Dal Mas makes tons of different kinds of traditional Venetian and Italian pastries, some of which are savory, another great option to pick up before a train journey.
A bar and standing tables are available inside.
Rosa Salva
Neighborhood: Castello (several other locations)
Rosa Salva has several locations, but we chose one of the older locations in the Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo in the Castello neighborhood. At Rosa Salva you can also get traditional tramezzini, think 1950s crust-less whitebread sandwich.
Bar standing room is available as well as indoor and outdoor seating. Sitting will cost more than drinking and eating at the bar.
Pasticceria Chiusso
Neighborhood: Castello
Pasticceria Chiusso has a family-owned feel and it's lovely. The frittelle taste like they were made by your grandmother, if your grandmother was a great baker. The frittelle were on the heavy side, but delicious. I regret not trying their Galani (or chiacchiere). There are many other pastries available as well as savory ones including mini focaccia pizzas.
Pasticceria Rizzardini
Neighborhood: San Polo
The oldest pastry shop in Venice, founded in 1742, and the one that felt the most "neighborhoody" to us. The shop is quite small and the day we went it was packed with customers. The two women behind the counter deftly doled out pastries and coffee while calling regulars by name and chatting about the day. The frittelle were on the heavier side and had a homemade sense in the best way. At Pasticceria Rizzardini you can also find many other local pastries as well as some savory pastries.
Bar standing room only.
Pasticceria Tonolo
Neighborhood: Dorsoduro (but one street away from the San Polo neighborhood)
Like Majer and Pasticceria Rizzardini, the day we went to Pasticceria Tonolo it was packed. But what else can you expect from a famous pastry shop in the heart of Venice during Carnevale? There was a line out the door and we all happily waited. Except for two tourists who cut the line and went in the exit door (not cool), we rule-abiding line-waiters
commiserated. Tonolo seemed to be the most popular of all the pasticcerie we visited for take-away pastries. Big tip: if you want to eat and drink at the bar you can politely indicate that's your intention and head straight to the bar and order there, if there is room. If you want pastries to go you have to wait in line. We found this out after ordering. C'amma fa' (what are you gonna do).
Standing room only at the bar.
Pasticceria Toletta
Neighborhood: Dorsoduro
These were the first frittelle we tried and they blew my mind. I asked for mine to-go seeing how big it was and said "there is no way I can eat that all right now," we had just scarfed down dinner. I was wrong. I ate the whole thing and wanted another, but stopped myself knowing that we were headed to a wine bar for a little snack (yes, we eat our way through every place we go). Pasticceria Toletta has many other traditional and refined pastries as well.
Bar and outdoor table standing only.
Tip: They are also just next to Bar Alla Toletta (where we scarfed our dinner because it was almost closing time 7:30pm) which is a great option for a fast sandwich or tramezzino. The vibe is very 1980s Italian diner, which I love.